Thoughts Evolving

Before coming to Mali, I was pretty set in my way as far as the way I thought about Africa, development and wanting to be the perfect PC Volunteer. I thought that development really did work, it’s just that something has been missing for the past 30 years. And if it didn’t work, why were so many organizations and people throwing money into it. And Peace Corps, I mean, Peace Corps is the ultimate volunteer agency and was the perfect path for me. I knew it was a perfect fit and I had been telling myself that since Sophomore year of college.

Well, as the title suggests, my thoughts have changed a little. I thought that I had something to prove, that I needed to be the most hardcore volunteer that was in country. I thought I was competing with someone for that title. I wanted a hut, an outhouse, no electricity, no toilet paper and minimal food. Well, after about two or three months, I realized that it’s just not that easy to let go of my creature comforts. I still craved Oreos and wanted ice cream! I also thought that I was going to change the world – and if not the world, then definitely my little village. When the villagers just stare at you blankly when you start to profess your words of wisdom concerning better health and how to cultivate millet, you realize, “Okay, maybe I’ll just focus on changing the habits of my family, not the whole village!” Even though I didn’t have this kind of site, I wanted it! I thought that at least I could help a little like this.

Recently, as I’ve said, I changed sites and changed jobs. I have a nice house, indoor plumbing, a gas stove, ceiling fans and a neighbor who has a refrigerator. When I’m hot, I come to the Peace Corps bureau and sit in the AC room. I buy ice frequently to enjoy cold water. I ride my bike around and eat good food and can buy fresh fruits and veggies every if I want. I’m not living the way I “wanted” to live, but I’m having a great time here in Sevare.

As far as changing the world, I’m not going to do that and I finally realize that. Not to sound like I’ve given up, I’ve just become realistic. Development work hasn’t worked for 30 years because there’s only so much that Western organizations can do. It’s a 50/50 relationship and most people – in my case, Malians – aren’t keeping up their 50%. They’re set in their ways, and behavior change doesn’t seem likely. Malians will likely accept your suggestions on washing their hands or planting a garden, but once you leave, they give up and go back to their old ways. That’s not sustainable development – that’s immediate gratification that will end as soon as you leave.

With all of this said, I’ve developed some new thoughts and goals for myself. Before it was to suffer and become Malian and live the way they do. Now, I want to be here working and see what I can get done. But at the end of the day, if my project doesn’t succeed or I don’t change the entire city to see things and do things my way, I’m not going to beat myself up for it. I’m going to live in Mali for the rest of my service and I’m going to have fun. I’m going to put myself first. And if that means making homemade ice cream or enjoying Oreos sent from the States, then so be it.
There's a huge disconnect here between living and working. If you're living, then you don't necessarily have an effect on the people around you. You're doing your own thing and satisfying your needs. But if you're working, all that you have is devoted to work and to - in most cases - developing certain villages. It's hard to live and work here. I've pretty much decided that it can't be done. So, I'm focusing on living and working, but not forcing myself or Malians. If they want to succeed, they'll seek me out. I'm not pushing anymore.

Needless to say, I'm putting myself first and I'm going to have a great time. I no longer need to compete with anyone else, I just need to be happy. However I reach that goal of happiness - which is pretty hard this day and age - depends on the strides with which I take my life. Happiness and fun are my mantra now, of course with a little bit of work mixed in.

I'm Feeling HOT HOT HOT

All I have to say is that sweating profusely in 110 degree heat isn't the funnest thing in the world. Pray with me for the most plentiful rainy season ever. And pray for it soon. Or just speed along time until June 15th when I go to Ghana.

The point is that 110 is not a good number.

Laiterie Suudu Baaba

I’ve recently started working at my new job and I love it! It’s a dairy co-op and they produce milk and yogurt using the milk from local farmers. It really is awesome. It’s a lot more rewarding than my past job was and I just feel so at home.

Even though I have no idea what the milk-making process in the States is, I’m sure it’s not very similar to this – save for the pasteurization process. Here’s a day in the life at the Co-op.

Lala Bah and Oumou sifting the milk and bagging it. This milk was actually made the night before and is being packaged the next morning.

Lala is sifting the curds of out the milk to make it as smooth as possible.

Here are Bolly and Sidibe pouring the morning's fresh milk into the pasteurizing machine. They use gas to heat it up and it takes about two hours to pasteurize.

Here is Sidibe taking the temperature of the milk to make sure it's finished.

And the unloading of the pasteurizing machine into buckets. You can imagine the smell of 120 gallons of hot milk. They even filter it at this point to make sure that no debris has come this far.

Here, Bolly and Sidibe empty out the pasteurizing machine getting every last drop of scalding hot milk. The outcome is 4 or 5 large bins of milk.

Here the ladies clean the pasteurizing machine - Lala, Fatumata and Oumou.

After the milk is done, Sidibe adds sugar and stirs two of these bins to make yogurt. It's really good, just not strawberry - yet!

And here is the final product in the cooler - milk is in the clear bags and the yogurt is packaged in professional Suudu Baaba packaging.

Here is it! The only problem - and everyone thinks I'm crazy - is that I don't drink milk here. Maybe I'll wean myself into it. Until the next time...stay cool!

My New Site!

The long anticipated site change. Here in Peace Corps Mali - in general - it's pretty easy to change sites. That means moving to a new location because of security, health or work issues. Peace Corps staff wants you to be happy and will help to accommodate that. In my case, I haven't ever really felt connected to Douentza and back in February I made the ultimate decision to leave. I had tried to push myself - to force myself to love it in Douentza. To be hard core and not need the ltitle things to help keep me going. But after considerable thought, and good conversation with other PCVs, I've decided that I just need to be happy and do what I need to do in order to make my service here a success.

Before I came to the States I asked my supervisor to help me locate a new site. Well, I moved into Sevare - which is about 2 hours from Douentza and I'm familiar with it already because I go there to do banking and we have a Peace Corps Office there where we can chill or take care of business. After a long, hot week sitting in Douentza catching up on reading with ice water in hand and a fan at my face, I finally was able to move last Wednesday. Packing up everything was kind of final, but the fact that I was getting away from my mouse infested house was reason enough to make me feel really good.

Here's my new house in Sevare -

Before everything was moved inside - here's the facade of my house.

Come on, you know a shower and toilet would make anyone happy! Admittedly, I will probably still use the outhouse at times - for nostalgia if for nothing else.

After I had cleaned the floors I bought nails for cement walls and did a little decorating. I'm very happy!

And then as far as my new job is concerned, I don't know a million things about it, but here's what I do know. It's a Dairy Co-op named Suudu Baaba which is essentially the equivilent of Dad's House or something along the lines of family cooking. Kind of hard to translate. Anyway, they have a bunch of cows that they milk each day and then bring the milk to their store where they already own a pasturizing machine - I was amazed - and then they package milk and yogurt. They have been very successful to date and I can only see it getting better for them. I'll be helping with internal management and business skills, but honestly you will soon see photos of me milking cows and making milk. How awesome is that? I've really only sat down with my counterpart and the organization for about an hour, but already I know I'll be loving it and it just feels right. I don't think I've ever felt this way about a job - and we all know I've had plenty! Needless to say, it's a perfect match and I can't wait to get started on some substantial work.

More to come soon!

We Finally Found Elephants!!!

Well, it's was a bright and cheery day when the elephants of Mali and Burkina Faso were sought out and found by on Mali volunteer (Me) and five Guinea volunteers who have recently relocated to Mali after being evacuated from Guinea for political reasons. Anyway...it was Cinco de Mayo and we were having a party in Douentza but Cathleen organized the tour of the elephants. I won't go into much detail except to say that the 3.5 hour transport to and from could have been a little more fun. And the thorn that I got embedded into my heel was equally not as fun. But oh well, right? Here are some of the photos.

Elephant footprints made during rainy season and all dried up now.

Jackpot! One of the long legged, short tusked elephants of Burkina Faso/Mali area.

My favorite photo of the day - goats with the elephant background. It kind of looks like he wants to charge at me. Luckily, that didn't happen!

I'm not sure what the next animal adventure is, but I will be going to Ghana soon! Looking forward to posting about that.